North Dakota, located at the center of the North American continent, is bounded by Montana on the west, South Dakota on the south, Minnesota on the east, and the Canadian provinces of Manitoba and Saskatchewan on the north. North Dakota encompasses 183,017 sq km (70,702 sq mi), of which 2% is surface water. The state ranks 17th in area of the 50 states, and 47th in population (1990 resident census, 638,800). Bismarck, the capital, has a population of 49,256 (1990). The name Dakota comes from a Sioux Indian word meaning "allies." North Dakota is a significant agricultural producer and contributes lignite coal and petroleum reserves to regional and national demands for increased energy. The state is concerned with maintaining the present quality of the environment while developing its resources. LAND AND RESOURCES North Dakota is composed of three principal physiographic regions: the Red River Valley, the Drift Prairie, and the Missouri Plateau. These regions rise from east to west in a steplike fashion from 229 m (750 ft) in the Red River Valley to the state's highest elevation of 1,069 m (3,506 ft) at White Butte on the Missouri Plateau. The Red River Valley is the former bed of glacial Lake Agassiz. The North Dakota portion varies from 16 to 64 km (10 to 40 mi) in width from north to south along the North Dakota and Minnesota border. The valley is relatively flat, with an average elevation of 275 m (900 ft). The Drift Prairie lies to the west of the Red River Valley in the center of the state. It is separated from the Red River Valley by the Pembina Escarpment in the north and the Coteau des Prairies in the south. The land is generally hilly, averaging 440 m (1,450 ft) in elevation, and broken by numerous shallow coulees and lakes. The Missouri Plateau lies to the southwest of the Drift Prairie, separated from it by the Missouri Escarpment and a hilly area between the Missouri River and the escarpment known as the Coteau du Missouri. Elevations average 655 m (2,150 ft), and the land surface is irregular and rolling. The rugged \Tbadlands\t, with rock formations eroded by the Little Missouri River, are found in this area, as are the Killdeer Mountains, with buttes rising about 180 m (600 ft) above the prairie. Soils vary across the state. In the Red River Valley rich chernozem (black) soils of excellent fertility are prominent. On the Drift Prairie, glacial soils are well suited for agricultural production, especially of wheat and other small grains. The chestnut or brown soils of the Missouri Plateau were formed under semiarid climatic conditions and are less productive than the eastern soils formed under more humid conditions; these chestnut soils are productive with adequate moisture, but agricultural yields are lowered by moisture deficiency. Climate The climate of North Dakota ranges from humid-continental in the east to semiarid in the west and is characterized by hot summers and cold winters, low humidity and precipitation, and much wind and sunshine. Precipitation varies from an average of near 560 mm (22 in) in the east to less than 380 mm (15 in) in the southwest. Statewide, one-half of the total precipitation occurs in the months of May, June, and July. Temperatures range from a July average of 21 deg C (70 deg F) to a January average of - 14 deg C (6 deg F). The growing season averages more than 100 days. Rivers and Lakes North Dakota is drained by two major river systems, separated by a major watershed that extends diagonally from the northwest to the southeast across the state. The \TRed River of the North\t and Souris River drain the northern and eastern parts of the state into Hudson Bay. The remaining 59% of the state is drained into the Gulf of Mexico by the \TMissouri River\t, the James River, and their tributaries. Lake Sakakawea, created by damming the waters of the Missouri River, is the largest water body in the state, covering 2,353 sq km (909 sq mi), and is 322 km (200 mi) long. The largest natural lake is Devils Lake. Vegetation and Animal Life Vegetation ranges from medium to tall varieties of prairie grass in the east to short varieties of prairie grass in the west. Trees are found mostly in river valleys, although the Turtle Mountains and Pembina Hills have a forest cover of oak and aspen. The prairies once provided an ideal habitat for bison and antelope, and the wooded areas were inhabited by deer, elk, and bear. Antelope and deer are still common enough in the state to allow an annual hunting season. Fur bearers, such as beaver, muskrat, and mink, are found in the state, as are coyote and fox. Waterfowl, upland game birds, and songbirds are common. The federal government maintains two fish hatcheries, and several new species, including the coho salmon and lake trout, have been introduced into North Dakota waters. Resources North Dakota's mineral resources are vast and varied. Mineral fuels include lignite coal, natural gas, and petroleum. Other minerals include clay, sand and gravel, sulfur, potash, and salt. Conservation of North Dakota's resources, especially soil, has been a dominant consideration since the 1930s. State and federal agencies are responsible for programs in soil conservation, erosion protection, flood control, and protection of public lands. PEOPLE North Dakota's 638,800 inhabitants (1990 resident census) give the state an average population density of about 4 persons per sq km (9 per sq mi), ranging from 22.5 per sq km (58 per sq mi) in Cass County to 0.7 per sq km (0.3 per sq mi) in Slope County. About 40% of the population is classified as living in metropolitan areas; the leading cities are \TBismarck\t, \TFargo\t, \TGrand Forks\t, and \TMinot\t. More citizens have become classified as urban because of growth in certain rural centers, a decrease in farm numbers, and an increase in farm size. The population grew dramatically from statehood (1889) until 1930, when depression and drought started a migration from the state. The 1930 population (680,845) has not been exceeded since. The population is predominantly white, the only significant minority group being the native Americans, who constitute about 4% of the state's population. In terms of national origin, the population is mainly Scandinavian, Russian, German, and Canadian. Blacks, Hispanics, and Asians each make up less than 1% of the population. Church membership has been on the increase in North Dakota in recent years, although the number of religious denominations is decreasing. The Lutheran and Roman Catholic faiths predominate. Education and Cultural Activity Free public education began when Congress passed (1889) the Enabling Act, which divided the Dakota Territory and enabled the residents to form constitutions and state governments. The educational system of North Dakota is based on 276 public school districts, 61 nonpublic schools, and 7 Bureau of Indian Affairs schools. North Dakota has six 4-year state universities (see \LNorth Dakota, state universitie\ls OF) as well as several junior colleges and a few private colleges. The University of North Dakota at Grand Forks, with branches at Williston and Devils Lake, and North Dakota State University at Fargo, with a branch at Bottineau, are the state's largest universities. Institutions of higher education have tended to emerge as the focal points of cultural and artistic expression in the state. Fargo, Grand Forks, and Minot have symphony orchestras that make statewide appearances. There are dance groups in Fargo and Grafton. The State Historical Museum is in Bismarck, housed in the North Dakota Heritage Center on the grounds of the state capitol. The North Dakota Humanities Council in Bismarck advances various academic endeavors, while the North Dakota Council on the Arts in Fargo advances the cause of the performing arts in the state. A summer International Music Camp is held annually at the International Peace Garden, which straddles the Manitoba-North Dakota border. Historic Sites North Dakota's historic sites reflect the frontier character of the state. Military forts include Fort Lincoln, the post from which Gen. George Custer departed for his fateful encounter at the Little Bighorn. The oldest settlement in North Dakota is at Pembina. The historic cattle town of Medora (est. 1883) in the Badlands of western North Dakota has been reconstructed; Medora symbolizes the era when Theodore Roosevelt ranched in the area and the marquis de Mores, a French nobleman, established a meat-packing plant to supply eastern markets. Recreation The state has various state parks. Theodore Roosevelt National Park, located in the Badlands, is one of the state's major tourist attractions, with hiking, trail riding, camping, and other facilities. The Turtle Mountains, located on the international boundary in the north central part of the state, are widely used for boating, fishing, swimming, and camping in the summer months and for cross-country skiing and snowmobiling during the winters. The International Peace Garden commemorates 150 years of peace between the United States and Canada. Communications North Dakota has daily and weekly newspapers, radio and television broadcasting facilities, and public and cable television systems. The state's leading newspapers originate in Fargo, Grand Forks, Minot, and Bismarck. ECONOMIC ACTIVITY The basic economic activities in North Dakota are agriculture, mining, manufacturing, and tourism. Manufacturing is concentrated on agricultural products and machinery. Agriculture North Dakota is a leading farm state, deriving about 10% of its gross state product from agriculture. Crops account for much of the state's farm income, with wheat the major crop. North Dakota is typically the nation's leading producer of hard red spring wheat and durum wheat. Other important crops include oats, corn, soybeans, hay, sunflower seeds, flaxseed, barley, and rye. Cattle, hogs, sheep, turkeys, chickens, and dairy products are also valued commodities. Mining and Energy A wide variety of mineral resources is found in North Dakota, with coal and petroleum the most economically significant. Petroleum is the most valuable mineral found in the state. It first was discovered in 1951 in the huge Williston Basin, covering parts of North Dakota, South Dakota, Montana, and southern Canada, and is produced primarily from wells located in a number of counties in the western part of the state. Natural-gas wells are also located in western North Dakota. The state ranks first in the nation in total coal reserves, although most of these are lignite (brown) coal. The coal deposits are found in western North Dakota, particularly in mercer County. Major nonfuel minerals found in the state are sand and gravel. Southwestern North Dakota has large amounts of clay. Most of North Dakota's electrical power is generated from steam plants that burn lignite coal. The hydroelectric power plant at Garrison Dam provides electricity as well. North Dakota also exports electricity to other midwestern states. Manufacturing Industry in North Dakota is based primarily on its agricultural products, and establishments such as flour mills, sugar-beet processing plants, and other food-processing establishments form the leading industrial group. Other industries include nonelectrical machinery; printing and publishing; stone, clay, and glass products; oil refining; and the processing of natural gas. Transportation and Tourism North Dakota, a large but sparsely populated state, is served by two major interstate highway systems. Interstate 94 travels east and west, passing near Fargo, Jamestown, and Bismarck; Interstate 29 extends north and south near North Dakota's eastern border. Major railroads servicing North Dakota are the Burlington Northern and the Soo Line. Several airlines provide transportation for the state. Tourists attracted to outdoor activities and exploration provide significant income and employment opportunities. GOVERNMENT The Omnibus Bill of Feb. 22, 1889, divided the Dakotas and allowed the formulation of a state constitution. A constitutional convention was held beginning on July 4, 1889, and on Oct. 1 the constitution was voted upon and passed by the people. President Benjamin Harrison admitted North Dakota to statehood on Nov. 2, 1889. Governmental Institutions The chief executive is the governor, who is elected to a 4-year term. The governor is commander in chief of the military forces of the state, has the power to grant reprieves and pardons, can veto legislation (which may be overridden by a two-thirds majority of each house of the legislature), and appoints heads of departments of the executive branch of government. The legislative assembly consists of a 50-member senate and 100-member house of representatives. Senators are elected to 4-year terms and representatives to 2-year terms. The legislature meets for 60-day sessions in odd numbered years. The judicial system consists of a 5-member supreme court, 6 district courts, and 53 county magistrates. Additionally, there are numerous county justices and police magistrates. The state is composed of 53 counties having organized townships, which constitute the smallest political units outside of some school districts and municipalities. Each county elects county commissioners to 4-year terms and other officials to 2-year terms. Municipal government is exercised by incorporated cities that operate under either the mayor-alderman, city commission, or city manager form of government. Politics Though normally a Republican stronghold, North Dakota has had a tradition of independent politics, especially in times of agricultural distress. The \TPopulist party\t, led by William Jennings \TBryan\t, attracted much support there in the 1890s. In 1915 the \TNonpartisan League\t was organized, led by A. C. Townley, a socialist. The League controlled state government after 1916 and founded a state-owned bank, mill, and elevator. The state still controls these institutions. The League lost power in the 1920s, but its leaders continued to exercise influence through the Independent Voters Association for the rest of the decade. In 1932 the League again came into power with the election of William Langer as governor. After Langer lost the governorship to John Moses, a Democrat, in 1938, he was elected to the U.S. Senate in 1940 on the Republican ticket. He was reelected three times to the Senate, the last time as an independent. North Dakota has regularly voted for the Republican candidate in presidential elections since 1900, except for Woodrow Wilson in 1912 and 1916, Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1932 and 1936, and Lyndon B. Johnson in 1964. HISTORY As long as 15,000 years ago a hunting culture inhabited the region that is now North Dakota. In historic times Indian tribes of the region included the Dakota, usually called \TSioux\t, a name bestowed on them by others that means "enemies"; the \THidatsa\t, parent tribe of the \TCrow\t nation; the \TOjibwa\t, who came west from the Great Lakes with French trappers; and the \TCheyenne\t, originally a pastoral people, who became nomadic as they were pushed west by the Sioux. The first European to visit the area was the sieur de \TLa Verendrye\t, a French fur trapper from Canada. In 1738 he met and lived with the \TMandan\t Indians near present-day Bismarck. In 1742, La Verendrye's sons returned to explore southwestern North Dakota in search of the great western sea. Lewis and Clark explored (1804-05, 1806) the Missouri River through North Dakota on their expedition to the Pacific and again on their return in 1806 (see \TLewis and Clark Expedition\t). In 1812 colonists sponsored by the earl of \TSelkirk\t arrived at Pembina as part of the larger \TRed River Settlement\t. This first attempt to establish a permanent European settlement in the state failed, but Charles Cavaleer brought settlers to Pembina from Minnesota to form the first permanent agricultural colony in 1851. The period from 1850 to 1870 was one of war with the Dakota Indians, who were being pushed west by European settlers in Minnesota and whose bison herds on the Dakota plains were being decimated. The Dakota Indians were eventually pushed into the Badlands, west of the Missouri River, and the Dakota Territory was opened to homesteading on Jan. 1, 1863. Joseph Rolette filed the first homestead in the northwestern Red River Valley in 1868. In 1871 railroads reached the Red River of the North from Duluth and Saint Paul, resulting in the emergence of Fargo, now the state's largest city. A flood of settlers homesteaded the area, and large-scale agriculture began. The period from 1878 to 1886 became known as the Dakota Boom, but settlement west and north of the Missouri River was stalled until the surrender of \TSitting Bull\t, chief of the Sioux, at Fort Buford in 1881. North Dakota became the 39th state on Nov. 2, 1889. Agriculture has grown dramatically since World War II and remains the mainstay of the state's economy. Resource development was highlighted in 1957 by the discovery of oil. The strategic importance of the state was enhanced during the 1960s by the establishment of air bases and intercontinental ballistic missile sites. The energy crisis of the 1970s spurred increased exploration and development of the state's oil resources and the mining of its immense lignite reserves. The development of water projects in this area of variable precipitation remains a vital concern from the standpoints of environmental impact and economic benefit to the agricultural sector. North Dakota is a large state with a small population. The rural character of its people is manifest in their independence and self-reliance. The people judiciously guard their quality of life. As a producer of agricultural and energy commodities, the state will experience increasing demand for its products. The consequences of this demand, as reflected by agricultural commodity prices, economic stability, and quality of the natural and human environment, are the paramount concerns of the present. Gary E. Johnson Bibliography: Federal Writers' Project, North Dakota: A Guide to the North Prairie State, rev. ed. (1950); Howard, T. W., ed., The North Dakota Political Tradition (1981); Kazeck, Melvin E., North Dakota: A Human and Economic Geography (1956); Robinson, Elwyn B., History of North Dakota (1966); Schneider, M. J., North Dakota Indians (1986); Tweton, D. Jerome, and Jelliff, Theodore B., North Dakota: The Heritage of a People (1976); Wilkins, Robert P. and Wynona H., North Dakota (1977); Wills, Bernt L., North Dakota: The Northern Prairie State (1975).