North Carolina occupies a median location along the Atlantic seaboard and is bounded on the south by South Carolina and Georgia, on the west by Tennessee, on the north by Virginia, and on the east by the Atlantic Ocean. In area, the state ranks 28th, and in population it ranks 10th. \TRaleigh\t is the state capital. North Carolinians are called Tar Heels, a nickname the origin of which is still debated. One of the first English colonies, the area was named for Charles I in a charter of 1629. With its involvement in both the Revolutionary and Civil wars, North Carolina has a rich historical tradition on which, in part, a growing tourist industry is based. Traditionally agricultural with many tobacco plantations, the state was one of the first in the South to industrialize and now ranks high in industrial output. LAND AND RESOURCES North Carolina is divided into three main physical provinces: the coastal plain, the Piedmont, and the mountains. The eastern boundary of the coastal plain is a chain of barrier islands, the Outer Banks, separated from the mainland by lagoons and salt marshes. The miles of beaches are geologically ephemeral and ecologically vulnerable. The coastal plain is divided into the Tidewater area, which is quite flat, poorly drained and often marshy, and the inner coastal plain, which is higher, better drained, and better suited for agriculture. The coastal plain merges with the gently rolling \TPiedmont\t at the \Tfall line\t, where the change in slope made navigation more difficult and waterpower a possibility. Raleigh, like many important East Coast cities, lies near the fall line. The Piedmont elevations range from 90 to 180 m (295 to 591 ft) in the east to 457 m (1,500 ft) at the Blue Ridge. The Piedmont encompasses about 45% of the area of the state, about the same percentage of the total area as the coastal plain. The \TBlue Ridge Mountains\t, the beginning of the mountain province, rise above the Piedmont. In North Carolina the Appalachian chain reaches its zenith. More than 40 peaks are higher than 1,830 m (6,000 ft), and Mount Mitchell, at 2,037 m (6,684 ft), is the highest peak east of the Mississippi. The rounded contours of these very old mountains testify to long periods of erosion. Soils North Carolina soils are complex and varied but generally low in plant nutrients and minerals, which have been washed away by hard summer rains. Sandy soils dominate in the coastal plain, red clay in the Piedmont, and thin residual soils in the mountains. Heavy applications of lime and fertilizers are necessary for good yields, and continued care must be taken to prevent erosion. Climate The climate of North Carolina is generally mild, especially on the south coast. In the mountainous west the winters are more severe, but the summers are relatively cooler. The mountains shield the state to some extent from cold fronts coming from the north or northwest, and the ocean tempers the climate of the east. January mean temperatures are 5 deg C (42 deg F), and July temperatures average 24 deg C (75 deg F). The state is well watered, with from 1,016 to 2,032 mm (40 to 80 in) of rainfall yearly. The coastline is occasionally hit by hurricanes, especially on the Outer Banks. Rivers and Lakes Although the state has no major river, the area is drained by a dense network of streams in three distinct systems. The first of these rises west of the Blue Ridge, drains into the Gulf of Mexico through the Tennessee and Ohio rivers, and includes the French Broad and Little Tennessee rivers. The second system drains the Piedmont south and east through South Carolina and Georgia and includes the Catawba and Yadkin rivers. The third network, which includes the Cape Fear, Neuse, Roanoke, and Tar rivers, drains the Piedmont by way of the coastal plain into Abermarle and Pamlico sounds. Only the Cape Fear River flows directly into the Atlantic Ocean. The state has no large natural lakes and few sizable artificial reservoirs. Vegetation and Animal Life North Carolina's location in an overlapping zone between mid-latitude and subtropical vegetation makes for an especially rich variety of plant life, particularly in the \TGreat Smoky Mountains\t. Most of the coastal plain and Piedmont is forested with pines, and hardwoods dominate in the mountains. The state has an abundance and diversity of wildlife, ranging from migratory waterfowl at the seashore to the deer, foxes, bears, and wildcats of the highest mountains. Resources The state has a wide range of minerals, including precious stones, but few deposits are commercially valuable. Most of the mineral production consists of construction materials, except for a large phosphate deposit on the outer coastal plain. A favorable climate and moderately fertile soil give the state a valuable agricultural base, and climate and scenery encourage tourism. The numerous rivers, as well as the ocean and sounds, afford abundant sport and commercial fishing. The heavy rainfall, steep gradients, and topography all favor hydroelectric power, which has been important to North Carolina's industrialization. PEOPLE The population of North Carolina (1990 resident census) is 6,628,637. The population is largely descended from the original Scottish, Irish, Welsh, French, and German settlers, as well as from the blacks brought to the region as slaves. In 1990 blacks formed 22% of the state's population. A smaller minority group is the Indians, who numbered 80,155 in 1990, mainly the \TCherokee\t in the west and the Lumbee in the southeast. Persons of Hispanic origin numbered 76,726 in 1990 and constituted slightly more than 1% of the population. The population of the state is almost 50% Baptist. Until the 1970s North Carolina had been characterized by a sizable population emigration, especially of the better-educated whites and poor blacks attracted to the economic and social opportunities in northern cities. Since that time, however, the "brain drain" has reversed, and during the 1980s there was significant migration into the state. This change in the migration patterns is one reason that North Carolina's growth rate exceeds that of the nation as a whole. The Piedmont has long been the most populous region, with somewhat more than half the state's population, followed by the coastal plain and the lightly populated mountains. The percentage of blacks in the population is highest in the coastal plain, and lowest in the west. Although highly industrialized, North Carolina has a large nonmetropolitan population. Much of the rural population, however, is rural nonfarm, with farmers accounting for a small percentage of the total population. The urban pattern of North Carolina is characterized by a small-town orientation. Most of the cities are clustered in the Urban Piedmont Crescent, extending in an arc from Raleigh to Charlotte, but none dominates. The largest urbanized center is \TCharlotte\t, with about 5% of the state's population. \TGreensboro\t-\TWinston-Salem\t-High Point, with a population of 942,091 (1990), is the largest metropolitan area. Another urban complex, \TRaleigh\t-\TDurham\t, with a population of 735,480 (1990), grew at a rate of more than 30% between 1980 and 1990. Other important cities are \TAsheville\t, \TFayetteville\t, and \TWilmington\t. Education North Carolina ranks high among the states in the number of children enrolled in public schools, 1,077,000 (1989 est.). This large number, along with the state's low per-capita income of $15,198 (1989), may explain why the state's per pupil expenditure for education ranked 35th in 1989. Most educational funds come from state rather than local sources, a legacy of earlier years when some communities were too poor to support their schools adequately. The University of North Carolina at \TChapel Hill\t (UNC-CH), the nation's first operating state university, \TDavidson College\t, and \TDuke University\t are national leaders in higher education (see \TNorth Carolina, state universities of\t). The unusual proximity of Duke, UNC-CH, and North Carolina State led in 1958 to the establishment of Research Triangle Park. The combined libraries of the three universities has created one of the larger university book collections and was one reason for luring to the Park the National Center for the Humanities. Among North Carolina's numerous private colleges and universities is Wake Forest in Winston-Salem. Cultural Attractions Because North Carolina does not have very large cities, many of its cultural institutions are state supported--such as the North Carolina Symphony, headquartered in Raleigh. The North Carolina Museum of Art is also located in Raleigh. Educational institutions in various parts of the state have their own theaters, orchestras, or museums. Charlotte has the small but distinctive Mint Museum of Art, and the Morehead Planetarium at Chapel Hill is one of the nation's finest facilities of its kind. Historic Sites The long and rich history of the state has been preserved in a number of outstanding historic sites. The mystery of Sir Walter Raleigh's colony on Roanoke Island (see \TRoanoke Colony\t) has been memorialized in an outdoor drama entitled "The Lost Colony," and the fort has been rebuilt. Tryon Palace, the English governor's residence at New Bern, has been called the most beautiful building in the colonial Americas. The Moravian settlement of Old Salem has been restored. On the Outer Banks the Wright Brothers National Memorial commemorates America's first sustained flight. Recreation Great Smoky Mountains National Park is visited by more than several million persons annually. The mild climate encourages outdoor recreation. Among the better-known mountain resort areas are Asheville and Boone, with nearby ski resorts where the introduction of snow-making machines has made skiing a Southern sport. The state has no major league sports teams, but college games are well attended, with college basketball having especially avid fans and well-appointed facilities. Communications North Carolina's first newspaper was the North Carolina Gazette, established in 1751. Major newspapers today are in Raleigh, Greensboro, Charlotte, and Winston-Salem. There are also numerous commercial and noncommercial radio and television broadcasting facilities and television cable systems in the state. ECONOMIC ACTIVITIES In the course of a century North Carolina has been transformed from a largely agricultural economy to one that is highly industrialized. North Carolina ranks high among U. S. states in industrial output, and manufacturing employs about a third of the nonagricultural work force. It is a leading producer of textiles, cigarettes, and furniture. Although the industrial mix is becoming more diversified, more than 35% of total industrial employment is still in the textile and apparel industries. In value added by manufacturing, the state is among the top ten in the nation. Despite the state's large number of workers in manufacturing, North Carolina ranks low among U. S. states in the average wage paid because of the semiskilled nature of the leading industries. Agriculture North Carolina ranks high among U. S. states in farm population, number of farms, and farm income. Tobacco is the dominant component of the state's agriculture, along with other leading farm commodities--broilers, hogs, and turkeys. Principal crops grown in the state include sweet potatoes, peanuts, corn, grapes, pecans, apples, tomatoes, and soybeans. North Carolina's major agricultural counties are located on the coastal plain or among northern Piedmont counties on the Virginia border. Cotton is grown in scattered areas along the South Carolina border. Although farm employment continues on the decline, a significant share of the state's jobs are still connected either directly or indirectly to agriculture. Fishing and Forestry A small fishing industry is based on the Atlantic coast. Flounder, striped bass, and menhaden are major finfish. The shellfish catch includes shrimp, oysters, and crab. A much larger forest-products industry provides raw materials for the furniture and pulp industries. A favorable climate for rapid tree growth and proximity to markets give the forest-products industry considerable potential. Mining and Energy About 300 varieties of rock and minerals are found in North Carolina, many having commercial value. Sand, gravel, and crushed stone account for much of the state's mining industry, but the state is also a leader in the production of feldspar, lithium, mica, and phosphate rock. Most of North Carolina's energy comes from outside sources. Power requirements derive from petroleum, coal, natural gas, nuclear power, and hydropower. Transportation Wilmington and Morehead City connected by the Atlantic Intercoast Waterway, are the major ports, but they have historically been in the competitive shadow of Norfolk, Va., and Charleston, S.C. North Carolina was the first southern state to build an extensive network of farm-to-market roads and is now well served by highways, including five interstates. Today, trucks are more important than railroads in moving goods. The state is served by numerous railroads and commercial airports. Tourism The state's beaches and mountains have provided variety for North Carolina vacationers. Tourism has become one of the largest industries in the state. Outdoor recreation facilities attract most visitors. GOVERNMENT Government authority in North Carolina rests in the constitution, the state's third, which was adopted in 1971. The capital was located at Raleigh by legislative act in 1791. A total of 100 counties and many municipalities are legally controlled by the state government, though these smaller units exercise a degree of local autonomy. State government is unusually influential in the areas of education and highways, which are largely funded by the state. The executive office in North Carolina is given less power than is the practice in most other states. The governor serves a 4-year term and may be reelected for a second term. The governor has no veto power. An ex-officio council of state advises the governor. The legislature is made up of a 50-member senate and a 120-member house that are elected biennially. Supreme court and appellate, superior, and district court judges form the judiciary. North Carolina law permits easy annexation, and thus less political fragmentation exists in the state's metropolitan areas. The Democratic primary traditionally has been more important than the general election in the selection of state officials. HISTORY Although human settlement dates from 8000 BC, the first Europeans to visit the North Carolina coast were French explorers led by Giovanni da \TVerrazano\t in 1524. In 1526 a group of Spanish sailors established a temporary colony of more than 500 persons, probably at the mouth of the Cape Fear River. A 1540 expedition by Hernando \Tde Soto\t crossed what is now western North Carolina before turning west to discover the Mississippi River. It was the English, however, who made the first permanent European settlements in North Carolina, and the Roanoke Island settlement (1585-86) of Sir Walter \TRaleigh\t was the first English colony in the New World. A second group set sail from England in 1587 but had vanished by 1590 when a supply ship arrived. The mystery of the colony's disappearance has never been solved. Among the settlers was the first child born of English parents in America, Virginia \TDare\t. More than 150 years passed before settlers moved inland across the state--from the northeast corner in 1670 to the westernmost tip in 1820. The early European settlers came in contact with a number of Indian tribes as settlement spread westward, the most numerous groups encountered being the \TTuscarora\t. The natives occupied parts of the coastal plain and fiercely resisted the whites before being defeated in 1713, after which they returned to New York, their ancestral home. The \TCatawba\t of the southern Piedmont were friendly. The Cherokee, living in the Appalachian Mountains, were the last major tribe to be confronted by the settlers. Proprietary Period The colonial period from 1663 to 1729, known as the proprietary period, began when Charles II granted to eight lords proprietors that region lying between 31 deg and 36 deg north latitude and extending from the Atlantic Ocean to the South Seas. This region was later (1665) extended to 36 deg 30 minutes N to include the Albemarle settlers who had moved south from Virginia. Political strife and Indian wars slowed the colony's growth, however, and as the Charleston settlement grew more rapidly, the territory began to be known as North and South Carolina. The northern territory was made a separate colony in 1712 and had its own governors until 1829. This boundary was not established until 1735, nor fully surveyed until 1815. This period was characterized by misgovernment, turmoil, and slow growth. Piracy and disputes with Virginia over tobacco shipments through Virginia ports hampered trade. Bath, near the mouth of the Pamlico River, was the first town to be incorporated (1706). Settlement was generally confined to the coastal areas. Royal Colony In 1729, North Carolina became a crown colony when George II purchased the shares of Carolina from all the lords proprietors except Lord Granville. Until the outbreak of the Revolution in 1775, a more efficient government brought about increased settlement and greater prosperity. The population increased from 35,000 in 1729 to almost 350,000 in 1775, and settlement extended to the Blue Ridge Mountains and beyond. With this transmontane movement came the deep-seated differences between east and west that have continued to the present day. The colonial government was dominated by the eastern planters, and the more egalitarian and poorer west suffered from corrupt government and excessive taxes. The conflict resulted in the War of Regulation (see \TRegulators\t), in which the western insurgents were crushed by Gov. William Tryon (1729-88) at the Battle of Alamance Creek on May 16, 1771. In 1747-48 the Spanish attacked the North Carolina coast. Troops from North Carolina assisted British troops in the capture of Fort Duquesne during the \TFrench and Indian War\t (1754-63) and fought the Cherokee on the western frontier in 1760. Yet, North Carolina was among the leaders in resistance to British rule in the 1760s, and in 1765-66 its armed citizens prevented enforcement of the \TStamp Act\t in the colony. The American Revolution British rule came to an end in North Carolina when Gov. Josiah Martin fled New Bern in May 1775. The Second Provincial Congress in 1775 established two regiments and a state government. The first battle of the Revolution in North Carolina was fought against Scottish Loyalists at Moore's Creek Bridge on Feb. 27, 1776. Later that year the Fifth Provincial Congress adopted a state constitution and elected Richard Caswell the first governor. North Carolina was the first colony to declare officially its readiness for independence and in April 1776 furnished ten regiments to the Continental army, as well as thousands of militiamen. At the same time, it helped defeat the Cherokee and suppressed the Tory residents who made the revolution virtually a civil war in North Carolina. Despite its leadership in the Revolution, North Carolina was the next to last of the 13 original states to ratify the federal Constitution (November 1789). In 1789, North Carolina ceded its western territory, present-day Tennessee, to the federal government. The 19th Century The period from 1815 to 1835 was one of political and economic stagnation, with the oligarchic east in power at the expense of the more reform-minded west. The state's convention of 1835 resulted in a reapportionment that gave the west control of the state house of representatives, leaving the east in control of the senate. From 1835 until 1860 progress in transportation, education, tax reform, and women's rights, as well as agricultural expansion and greater prosperity, reversed the downward political and economic spiral and halted emigration west or south. The \TCivil War\t brought this improving trend to an end. North Carolina, though sympathetic to the South, was the last state to secede, on May 20, 1861. The battles of Fort Hatteras, Plymouth, Fort Fisher, and Bentonville, as well as Sherman's 1865 invasion and Johnston's surrender to Sherman near Durham on Apr. 26, 1865, were the most notable Civil War events in North Carolina. The political and social disruption caused by the war were exacerbated during \TReconstruction\t. The Democratic party regained control of the legislature in 1870 and removed from office Gov. W. W. Holden, electing Z. B. Vance in 1876 to end the Reconstruction period in the state. In 1880 the state began to industrialize and to urbanize for the first time. The new industrialization (called the First Cotton Mill Campaign) brought additional jobs to the Piedmont but only modest prosperity because of low wages. Agricultural production increased, but farmers were burdened by low prices, heavy debt, and widespread farm tenancy. By the turn of the century, major advances were made in the educational system, which had virtually collapsed during Reconstruction. World War I boosted the economy and led to the establishment of important military bases, including \TFort Bragg\t. Modern Period During the early 1920s an exodus of textile mills from New England to the Carolinas took place, reforms in state government were instituted, and extensive construction projects began. Even during this period of prosperity, however, personal income still lagged, averaging only about half of the national mean. The Depression of the 1930s struck North Carolina early, and New Deal programs, particularly farm price supports, were important to economic recovery. World War II also gave the state's economy a boost. North Carolina has profited in recent years from its location in the Sun Belt, though problems still remain. Incomes are still low, agriculture remains dominated by tobacco, and the state's national primacy in textiles is vulnerable to foreign competition. Despite these problems, its people have probably never been better prepared to face the future. Clyde E. Browning Bibliography: \TGeneral\t: Doane, Jim, North Carolina: From the Mountains to the Sea (1980); Federal Writers' Project, The North Carolina Guide, ed. by Blackwell Robinson, rev. ed. (1955); Powell, William S., North Carolina (1977); Roberts, Bruce and Nancy, The Goodliest Land: North Carolina (1973). \Tgeography\t: Clay, James W., et al., North Carolina Atlas (1975); Lonsdale, Richard E., ed., Atlas of North Carolina (1967). \TPeople\t AND \LPolitic\ls: Escott, P. D., Many Excellent People (1985); Fleer, J. D., North Carolina Politics (1968); Howard, Lucille, North Carolina: Our State Government (1983); Wicker, Warren J., ed., North Carolina: Directions for the 1980s (1980); Wood, Phillip, Southern Capitalism (1986); Zopf, P. E., North Carolina: A Demographic Profile (1967). \Thistory\t: Bishir, Catherine W., North Carolina Architecture (1991); Butler, Lindley S., and Watson, Alan D., eds., North Carolina Experience: An Interpretive and Documentary History (1984); Hamilton, Joseph, Reconstruction in North Carolina (1914; repr. 1964); Jones, H. G., North Carolina Illustrated, 1524-1984 (1983); Lefler, Hugh T., and Newsome, Albert R., North Carolina: The History of a Southern State, 3d ed. (1973); Lefler, Hugh T., and Powell, William S., Colonial North Carolina: A History (1973); Powell, William S., North Carolina: A Bicentennial History (1977).