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3]2.0's HEALING POWERS - Staff
     A disk that goes bad under the 1.3 operating system may well be "healed"
by 2.0. The situation: A file is corrupted, say, by removing a disk when the
drive light is on. After that, 1.3 won't recognize it as a good disk.
However, put the disk in a drive under the new 2.0, and that system will
automatically close any open files it finds --restoring the usability of the
disk as a whole, even when it's run again under 1.3 again. However, the bad
file may well be lost. To get the job done, put the disk in a drive under 2.0
and double-click its disk icon. This provides the system access that's
required.
     Of course, regular 2.0 users are already getting this benefit, perhaps
without realizing it, and most 1.3 users don't have 2.0 to fall back on. If
the disk in question is important enough, one would suppose its owner would
move heaven and earth to gain access to 2.0 --on a friend's system or in the
show room of a friendly retailer of the A3000.

3].BAK PROBLEMS SOLVED - S. G. Garner, Camden, NJ
     I had three-fourths of a disk filled with text I was spell-checking,
when halfway through the job, to my amazement, I could not get a checked file
to save back to the disk. The disk, said the program, was full.
     I opened a CLI window and LISTED the disk. I discovered the spell
checker automatically saved a second version of every checked file by its
original name plus the suffix .bak.
     I solved this .bak problem with the following AmigaDOS trick, which
provided wholesale elimination of all files with the suffix .bak:

delete mydisk:#?.bak <RETURN>

     While I was at it, I deleted all the .info files from the disk, since I
didn't need them either:

delete mydisk:#?.info  <RETURN>

     Be careful about clearing out .info files. You may destroy icons needed
to double-click programs into action.

3]SORTED STORY - Mae Quinn, Los Angeles, CA
     Need to alphabetize a file? All you need is a list of names or items,
one per line. Let's say it's the following file, named MYLIST on a disk
called MYDISK:

Zachary Bob
Melon Sally
Allen Edward

     From a CLI or Shell, type the following lines, pressing Return after
each and waiting for the CLI prompt to continue:

sort mydisk:mylist to ram:sortedlist  <Return>
copy ram:sortedlist to mydisk:mylist  <Return>

     The file will now read in alphabetical (ASCII) order -- arrived at by a
sort which looks at the initial letter(s) of each line to determine order.

3]RUN, BILLY, RUN! - Bill Coats, Dallas, TX
     A technique I saw in JUMPDISK made me realize that for the lack of a RUN
I wasn't really multitasking from the Shell. If you just type a program name
to run, the process ties up the CLI, but if you prefix it with the word RUN,
RUN --as in RUN MYDISK:MYPROG --the CLI or Shell is left free to enter a
second RUN command, and a third, and so on. Then you're simultaneously
running multiple applications. Here's an example:
     From a Shell or CLI, type:

run ed fileone   <RETURN>

     Size down the resulting ED window and move it so the CLI or SHELL is
again visible. Then type in the CLI/Shell:

run ed filetwo   <RETURN>

     Size down this ED window so both fit. Click in either window and it
becomes active for entering data.
     I use two or more ED windows at once for transferring chunks of text
among multiple files. With ED you can define a block of type, save it to
RAM:HOLD, for example, then click in the window of another ED file, press the
ESC key and type

IF/ram:hold/  <RETURN>

. . . and the stored block will muscle its way into the file, starting on
the line beneath the line holding the cursor. Nothing is lost. The material
is inserted.
     I also use this method to put a small AmigaBASIC window over an ED
screen, so I can do quick math as I write. I first open an ED file, size it
down to fine the Shell again, then type:

extras:amigabasic  <RETURN>

. . . then click off the LIST window and size down the immediate mode Basic
screen and move its window to an out-of-the-way area of the ED screen.

3]`NO-NAME' FILES - Bob Lester, Montreal, QU, Canada
     I've wondered why some files, when LISTed with AmigaDOS, appear to have
no names. I've discovered in most cases the file name is actually a blank --a
space. You do it on JUMPDISK with the main J: window icon inviting A3000
owners to read a special file.
     When I discovered the secret, I liked the idea. Some files with icons
that tell the whole story need no repetitious file name beneath them. One can
only name one file per drawer as a blank, but other files in that same window
could be named as two, three, four or more spaces.
     The problem, of course, is that apparently unnamed files are not readily
accessible to anyone working with AmigaDOS. But in some cases that might be
your exact aim, for security.
     When dealing with such files from AmigaDOS, it's necessary to put the
blanks within quote marks. For example, the A3000 information on file can be
printed on screen by using the DECRUNCH program in the UTIL drawer this way:

j:util/decrunch "j: " *   <press Return>

3]GAME HELP - Carol Wade, Denver, CO
     The trouble with arcade/adventure games is that you get knocked off
bazillions of times before you ever get to see even a fraction of the locales
(images) of the game. I'm not interested in cheats and hints to solve such
games, but I am willing to peek at the pictures to see what's in store for me.
     Most such images on commercial games are IFF images of the type that can
be loaded into paint programs. My standard procedure is open a Shell, LIST
the disk's files, jot down likely image file names, and use PPSHOW on
JUMPDISK to sneak a peek at the images. Not all commercial game images are in
the right format, so I don't guarantee this 100 percent of the time. Let's
say you have a game whose disk is named BLOODBATH2050. Listing the contents,
you find a file named HANDSOME_PRINCE_DIRK.pic.
     Well, hey, I'd like to see what he looks like. So I put JUMPDISK in one
drive and BLOODBATH2050 in another and type:

j:util/ppshow bloodbath2050:handsome_prince_dirk.pic   <RETURN>

. . . and on comes the image. I click the right mouse button to exit when
Dirk begins to bore me -- as princes can.

3]CHEAP STEREO - Al Hoff, Minneapolis, MN
     Your Amiga has sound out jacks for both left and right channels of
stereo. They're on the back of the CPU. You could lug in the entire stereo
and send the sound through it. Or you could go to Radio Shack and pick up a
pair of fairly inexpensive amplified speakers. "Amplified" is the key word
here. They replace your stereo tuner in the hookup. Get a couple cords with
standard RCA jacks --just like ones on your stereo, and run them from the
left channel out to one speaker, and . ..you get the rest of it. Crank up the
volume and let it rip. If you can only afford one speaker, get a small Y-
cable with RCA jacks to pipe both channels into the same line to the single
speaker.

3]DRIVE RECOMMENDATION - Martin Kurtz, San Diego, CA
     If you're in the market for an external floppy disk drive, I can
recommend both Supra and California Access. Unlike the old Amiga 1020 drives,
they daisy-chain one through another for up to three externals functioning as
DF1:, DF2: and DF3:, in addition to your DF0: internal drive. They're small,
quiet and efficient, and you should be able to pick up one for from $100 to
$130. In today's market, don't pay too much more for an external drive.

3]ADDING NUMBERS FROM A TEXT FILE - Richard Laskowski, Waterloo, ON, CANADA
     In response to the letter sent by Tad Robertson of Boston to the
November 1990 TECHNOLOG section: He stated that to total all the dollar
values of his household inventory once a year, he required use of a
calculator. If he could get a copy of the July 1989 JUMPDISK, he would find a
program called ADDCASH, by which he can total all his valuables in each text
file as often as he wishes.
     In addition, I think following his directions has a lot of merit.

     FROM EDITOR: ADDCASH is a simple but effective AmigaBASIC listing which
opens a text file, reads it line by line and prints a running total of any
dollar amounts found in a given line. To prepare, write a text file with
dollar amounts anywhere within its lines, as in:

Pay to Joe Smith $45.32 for oranges
etc.

     The program asks you to enter the monetary symbol you want to pinpoint
and the filename. The rest is automatic. The secrets are Basic's INSTR, which
looks for a dollar sign within the line, and a VAL (numeric value) of the
MID$ portion of the line just past the dollar sign. This arcane knowledge
isn't needed by non-programmers.
      We've put the listing ahead for study. And we've also put it in the
root directory of this disk with no icon. To get it from there, load
AmigaBASIC from the EXTRAS disk and type:

load "j:addcash"   <Return>

. . . From there you can either run the program or save it to another disk
holding your money files: 

' AddCash By Virginia Cieli
CLS: CLEAR, 25000
ON ERROR GOTO catch
ON BREAK GOSUB ender: BREAK ON

PRINT "AddCash"
PRINT "-------"
PRINT 
PRINT "This program will total cash amounts from a text file."
PRINT 
PRINT "Type Money symbol to be sought ($, £, etc.) and press Return."
INPUT money$
PRINT "Type name of file to check and press Return."
PRINT 
INPUT f$
PRINT 
OPEN f$ FOR INPUT AS 1

getit:
LINE INPUT #1,A$
repeat:
x=INSTR(A$,money$)
IF x>0 THEN GOSUB totaler: GOTO repeat
IF EOF(1) THEN preend ELSE getit

totaler:
amt=VAL(MID$(A$,x+1))
total=total+amt
A$=MID$(A$,x+1)
IF amt=0 THEN skip
PRINT USING "#,###,###.##";amt
skip:
RETURN

preend:
PRINT "--------------------------"
PRINT USING "#,###,###.##";total
PRINT "is the total of the file."
PRINT 
PRINT "Press any key to exit now."

check:
p$=INKEY$
IF p$="" THEN check

ender:
CLS
CLEAR, 25000: SYSTEM

catch:
IF ERR<>53 THEN ender2:
PRINT "I Can't find the file ";f$
PRINT "Press any key to try again."

LOAF:
x$=INKEY$
IF x$="" THEN LOAF
RUN

ender2:
CLS
PRINT "Something went wrong. Press any key to exit."
pause:
x$=INKEY$
IF x$="" then pause ELSE ender

3]A COMPENDIUM OF MOUSE TIPS - Richard Ludowise, Janesville, WI
     Maybe your menus don't come up when you click your button. Or the screen
pointer just sits at one spot when you slide the mouse all over the desk.
Your programs are most likely fine and your Amiga is probably not defective,
but your mouse isn't well.

3]THE PAD
     Your mouse will never stay clean without a pad. Your desktop is just too
dirty. The surface is too slick for the mouse, and the desk may have been
oiled.
     If a mouse isn't working properly, 99 times out of 100, it's dirty. Your
mouse ball is dirty. Your ball-rollers are gunked-up and wound with lint and
hair. I can tell you how to clean a mouse, but you MUST get a good mouse pad.
It will help keep a mouse clean, as well as providing traction for the ball.
     A good mouse pad is made of a rubber-like mat, probably a dark gray
neoprene. The surface of this mat is covered with a close-weaved, flexible
fabric (much like stretch-and-sew material). The sizes range from 9" x 12",
up to around 14" x 20", the smaller sizes being more prevalent. I use a large
size commonly sold in office supply stores as a typewriter mat and priced
around $14. My local Amiga dealer sells small mats for $3.95. My local
Macintosh dealer sells the same sized mat for $39.95. I'm not kidding: Shop
around.
     Keep the pad clean by keeping all food, drink and tobacco away from it.
Wash your hands, wrists and arms before using the Amiga, to keep natural skin
oils off the pad.
     vacuum-clean the pad on a weekly basis to remove dust, lint and hair.
Banish pets from the pad area. If you keep the pad clean, you keep the mouse
clean.
     The next few tips will require that you open the mouse. This will void
any warranty on the mouse. The possibility of damage to the mouse is slight;
the cost of getting the mouse cleaned by a registered Amiga technician would
be high. Proceed at your own risk.
     My advice is to turn off Amiga, disconnect the mouse and take it away to
another CLEAN and DRY work area for this operation. You don't want to risk
ruining a machine worth several hundred dollars while working on a $50 mouse.
This presents a problem in following this text. Either print this article on
a printer, or read this article carefully and keep notes.
     Always remember to keep the mouse clean and dry.

3]THE BALL
     Get a clean dry bowl to hold parts. You'll also need a soft pink eraser,
a toothpick, a cotton swab, tweezers, and a small Phillips-head screwdriver.
     With the mouse disconnected from the machine, flip it on its back.
Locate the ball and the retainer plate that holds it in the mouse. Open the
plate by sliding it. Prepare to catch the plate and the ball with one hand,
then flip the mouse over and catch them. Notice the heaviness of the ball.
The outside of the ball is only coated with a rubbery substance. The ball
itself is probably metal. Take care not to abrade or pierce this coating.
Place the mouse body to the side somewhere.
     The mouse ball will collect oils and dirt. The best way I have found to
clean the ball surface is with a soft (pink) eraser. A pencil eraser is fine,
but be careful not to hit the ball with the brass edge of the eraser holder.
Scrub the ball clean in a methodical fashion get all the oils. Blow away the
eraser bits. You may be amazed by the dirt. Place the ball and its cover in
the clean dry bowl when you are finished. The ball will probably need monthly
cleaning --maybe every other month.

3]INSIDE THE MOUSE
     Slide the ball-less mouse near you and place it upside down. At the
cord-entry end are two small Phillips-head screws. These hold the mouse body
together. Remove these screws and place them in the dish with the ball and
the retainer-plate. Gently pry apart the top and bottom halves starting at
the cord-entry end. After the halves separate, set aside the top half. Flip
the bottom right side up. Now you should be looking at the circuit board and
ball socket area.
     The two button pads are near the cord entry. Examine these pads. Do
they show signs of wear? Have you been having problems with button response -
-either menu selection or clicking? Two small pieces of adhesive tape, cut so
as NOT to overlap the edges of the button pads will solve these problems. The
button pads are made of a soft material, and they will show wear or
impression marks. The tape simply builds them up. Apply one piece to each
button pad.
     Examine the ball socket area from top and bottom. There are three
plastic rollers with metal shafts. Connected to two of these shafts are black
plastic "thumbwheels." The alignment of these plastic parts on their shafts
is most likely correct. You can verify this by rolling them with your finger.
They should move without catching on anything.
     Examine the rollers. They are likely to have gunk stuck to them. This
stuff is oil and dirt. Use a cotton swab dampened with rubbing alcohol to
clean these parts. The alcohol won't hurt the mouse, but don't drench it. Use
a toothpick and tweezers to remove the cotton fibers the swab may leave
behind.
     There is most likely hair and lint wrapped around the metal shafts.
Tweezers, a wood toothpick and patience will remove this. Blow hard into the
rollers to dislodge lint.
     Let the mouse dry a few minutes. Blow out both halves of the mouse body.
Reassemble the mouse, making sure the cord is seated properly. Don't force
the screws too hard. The screws are only going into plastic. Replace the ball
and the retainer plate. With the machine's power off, plug the mouse back
into the Amiga.
     Try out the resuscitated mouse.

3]A MOUSE TIP
     Sometimes a quick fix is needed. Let's say you're in the middle of
creating a musical masterpiece, and the screen pointer won't follow the
mouse. Turn the mouse over in your hand and blow into it hard. Two or three
blows usually does it. This clears the lint or hair that jams the rollers.

4]END OF TEXT