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                     *       C H I P < > F A S T       *
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                     *        R A M S W I T C H        *
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                     *          F I T T I N G          *
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                     *     I N S T R U C T I O N S     *
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Author:
-------

Paul Lathwell



Technical
 Adviser:
---------

Mike Hilton




NOTE:
-----


Please  read  this  document  carefully before you undertake any modification
to your computer.


As you will have your computer in bits you will obviously need to print  this
document out, and make a sketch or print out the "MemSwitch" file.


If you don't have access to a printer please read the end of this file.



INTRODUCTION
------------


The following file explains how to  fit  a  switch  to  your  Amiga  A500  to
enable you to choose whether your 0.5 Mb trapdoor expansion is used  as  Chip
RAM or Fast RAM.



Why?



Well:


The  CPU (Central Processing Unit), tells everything else what to do. The CPU
is able to make use of both Chip RAM and Fast RAM. The Custom chips (used  to
store  graphics  and  sound),  are only able to use Chip RAM. If a program is
stored in Chip RAM, it may be interrupted by the Custom chips trying  to  use
the  same memory, causing the program to slow down. Therefore if we allow the
CPU to have its own memory, it should be able to run programs  faster,  hence
Fast RAM. 



So why have a switch?



As Custom Chips can only use Chip RAM, then obviously the more Chip  RAM  you
can  provide, the better they are able to manipulate it. This makes using the
following types of software more powerful:


e.g.   Paint packages, Scanner software, sampling software etc...


You  could  of course just modify the circuit board and have 1Mb of Chip RAM,
but you may find some software, (usually older stuff) will  not  work  as  it
requires some Fast RAM.




IMPORTANT!
----------

If your warranty has yet to expire, I advise you NOT to attempt the following
modification to you Amiga. This project requires you  to  remove  the  casing
from your computer and modify the mother board...



DISCLAIMER
----------

THE  FOLLOWING INFORMATION HAS BEEN BROUGHT TOGETHER FROM VARIOUS SOURCES AND
TO MY KNOWLEDGE IS CORRECT. HOWEVER, DUE TO THE  NATURE  OF  THIS  PROJECT  I
CANNOT  AND  WILL NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE, OF ANY KIND ,
CAUSED BY INCORRECT IMFORMATION. IF YOU UNDERTAKE THE FOLLOWING  MODIFICATION
THEN YOU AND YOU ALONE MUST ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY...


NOTE:
----

I  have  made  this modification to my own computer and suffered no problems.
I have the following machine:


                  A500 1.3 ROM, 6A Revision circuit board.



REQUIREMENTS
------------


1. Your Agnus Chip must be the 8372A Fatter Agnus.


2.  Your  expansion needs to be fast enough to keep up with the internal Chip
memory. To find this out  look  at  the  last  two  digits  printed  on  your
expansion  chips, they should be as low as possible, 08 or 10 will be fine (I
have 12 which was also O.K.). If the last two digits are higher than 15, then
the chips are too slow. (STOP HERE, or get a faster expansion!!!)


3. A dual position dual throw (DPDT) switch.


4. Some thin wire (thinner than speaker wire! Have  you  seen  where  they're
going!!!


5. A soldering iron with a small soldering bit.


6.  Thin  gauge  solder.  (some  desoldering  braid  is  also recommended for
removal of excess solder, & mistakes.)


7. Stanley, or modeling knife. (be careful now!).


8. Magnify glass.


9. Philips screw-driver.


10. An extremely steady hand.


11. Preferably someone to lend a hand.




READ THIS!!!



Soldering techiques:
--------------------


Soldering is not particularly difficult, but can be perfected with  a  little
practice.  One  of  the  main  mistakes  when soldering is to use far to much
solder. The object is to make a joint that will:


                            a: conduct

                            b: stay attached

                            c: not short-out with other
                               components/tracks etc.



To  prevent  damage  to  components and circuit boards try to avoid using the
soldering iron more than necessary. ie use enough heat to melt the solder and
make a connection. NOT enough to burn bloody great holes in your computer!!!


If you do make a mistake (probably), re-heat the connection  and  remove  the
wire. To remove solder left by this action use desoldering braid:  Place  the
braid on the solder, then heat the braid until excess solder is wicked away. 



Tips:
-----


Tin wires prior to soldering them. This will  reduce  the  amount  of  solder
needed  when  making  a  connection, therefore speeding the whole process up,
and  allowing  heat  to  be  kept  to  a  minimum.  Tinning  is  achieved  by
heating the wire and allowing a liberal amount of solder to flow over it.


A  good  soldered  joint should appear to be bright and shiny, if it isn't it
may not conduct properly and cause problems.


Clean  the  soldering  bit between joints by wiping it with a wet sponge then
apply a little solder before making another joint.




Precautions
-----------


Disconnect the mains supply to your computer! (You  don't  want  to  die,  do
you?)


Static  electricity  can  destroy  chips. (not the type that come with fish!)
To  avoid a build up of static charge, periodically ground yourself. This can
be achieved touching bare metal  on  either  a  radiator,  or  an  electrical
appliance which is plugged in.  (do not stick your finger in the socket!)




FITTING THE SWITCH:
------------------


Removing the casing
-------------------


Here we go...


Firstly disconnect everything from your computer. Mouse, external disk drive,
etc...


OK ?


Turn your computer, keyboard down and put it  on  something  soft.  NOT  YOUR
HEAD!  (Only  joking!!!).  Locate the  six fixing screws, three at the front,
three at the back then remove them. (They may be hidden  under  the  warranty
seals).  Turn  the machine back over and remove the top cover. You should now
be  down  to  the  metal  shield,  this  provides  protection   from    radio
interference.



With me?



Before you can remove the shield you will have to remove  Mr  keyboard.  Note
the  colours  on  the  wires and their orientation to the circuit board, then
carefully pull the ribbon cable from the  circuit  board.  Now  you  need  to
remove  the shield. Undo the four fixing screws, bend the metal tabs straight
with some pliers and pull off the shield.



Easy eh?



Before  you  go  any  further it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself
with the layout of things...


Firstly locate JP2, this consists of three solder pads and can be found  near
the ROM chip. (It should be marked JP2.)


Secondly find JP7A, this is located near the trapdoor expansion. Again it  is
made up of three solder pads. JP7A is not marked on revision 5  machines,  if
you  are  not  sure  you've located the correct pad do NOT continue with this
modification!



Here we go then...



1: Using the magnifying glass and knife carefully cut the trace  between  the
middle  and outer pad on both JP2 and JP7A. Using the magnifying glass ensure
that the traces are  properly  cut.  This  is  important  if  you  want  this
conversion  to  work.  If  you  are  only  converting your machine to use the
expansion as Chip memory, you'll need to solder the other outer pad of JP2 to
the inner pad of JP2.


2: Choose a suitable place to  put  the  switch,  making  sure  it  will  not
obstruct  anything  else.  If  you  don't want to start drilling holes in the
casing, putting the switch inside the trap door  will  be  quite  acceptable.
Once  a suitable place has been located, cut three strips of wire long enough
to reach from this point to JP2, and two more to reach JP7A.



Now it gets tricky...



3: Tin each piece of wire as explained earlier. Take one length of  wire  and
solder  it  to the first pad on JP2... Check that you've soldered the wire to
the pad only, not anything else. ie next pad. Repeat this procedure  for  the
other  two  pads,  again checking each afterwards. If you do solder more than
the pad to wire, use desoldering brade to remove the solder then try again!


4: Solder one length of wire to the middle pad of  JP7A.  Check.  Solder  the
final  piece  of  wire to the pad that used to be connected to the middle pad
of JP7A via the trace.



Did you get that ?



5: Consulting  MemSwitch diagram, wire the switch:



A:  Middle  pad  wire  of  JP2,  to one of the middle contacts on the switch.
Check.



B:  Connect  one  of the outer wires of JP2, to one of the contact legs, next
to middle wire of JP2, on the switch. Check the Join.



C:  Connect  remaining  JP2 wire, to the third contact leg on the JP2 side of
switch... Check.



D: Middle pad wire of JP7A to the other middle contact on the switch. Check.



E: The other wire on JP7A needs to be connected, opposite the  wire  of  JP2,
that used to be connected to the middle pad of JP2 by the trace. Check.



If you understood that congratulations!!!



6: Fit the switch in required position.


7: Reassemble computer in reverse order of taking it apart.


8: Use the 'Byte-Check' program (supplied) to check operation of the switch.



Using the switch
----------------


BEFORE operating the switch, please ensure that  your  computer  is  switched
off at the power supply.



Hopefully  you will have been successful making this modification. If however
you  do  have  a  problem,  the  best  course of action would be to check all
connections and ensure that the appropriate traces have been cut correctly.



Please remember I cannot accept any responsiblity for any damage!!!



Anyone who doesn't have access to a printer can  obtain  a  printed  copy  of
this file, and the 'MemSwitch' file directly from me...


Please  send  a cheque payable to 'Paul Lathwell' for £3-50 to cover printing
and postage to:



                               Paul Lathwell
                               3 Sweetbriar Close
                               Gadebridge
                               Hemel Hempstead
                               Herts HP1 3PA.




                                   * BYE *
