The following are included in this Archive: Amiga_1200.HD 504842 Dec 7,1993 >uses DPAINT:DpaintIV Amiga_1200.HD.info 1280 Dec 7,1993 Read_me.txt 3047 Dec 7,1993 >uses C:MuchMore Read_me.txt.info 737 Dec 7,1993 This archive may be passed along any electronic service as long as it remains in it's entirety. I have spent some time drawing this out to provide a Visual view of installing a 3.5" HD into your Amiga 1200. If you feel this will or has helped you in any way, please pass a few $$$ to me. I'd greatly appreaciate it: Dave Conditt 6931 SE 64th Portland, OR 97206 I am working on a few more hardware hacks for the Amiga 1200, including placing it into a IBM Clone case with a A4000 keyboard. This would give you ROOM to expand. Perhaps even to use a A3000/4000 CPU card. (040 power at last). If this animation you feel is unclear or doesn't show it all. Send you comments and questions to me. I will even provide a Video Tape of the installation for a small fee. I have a 250 Meg Western Digital in my Amiga 1200 running off the stock Amiga 1200 power supply. (The stock power supply has 22.1 Watts) CBM calls this 23 watts. The Stock Amiga 500 power supply is 35 watts and is a decent replacement. My Western Digital only requires 3 watts and hasn't been a problem. You may wish to use a Amiga 500 power supply to be on the safe side. When installing the 3.5" harddrive the R.T.C. cover has to be removed. It sticks up and therefore interferes with the 3.5" HD. therefore a RTC CANNOT be used with this setup. This isn't a problem for most as a RTC is availible on just about every memory board/accelerator on the market for the Amiga 1200, which goes in the trap door (CPU slot). The RTC cover cannot be replaced UNLESS you do the following (I did this). I cut off the 2 sides at the top edges. I then soldered it into place (at the RTC stock location) with a soldering iron right on the RF shield. The RF shield is thin metal and will solder too quite easily. I didn't remove the RF shield to do this but you might feel safer if you do. The 2.5" mount gets tossed. It also serves as a keyboard rest mount but the 3.5" HD now does this quite nicely. The keyboard cable goes underneath the 3.5" HD. The cable is a tight fit. You can add a tad bit of length by trimming it (carefully) on the sides of it and notching the metal of the backside of the keyboard (The metal bottom) so it can pull a bit more length from it. Some people have not had to do this. I used a Radio Shack nibbling tool (RS# 64-823). The keyboard connector is a 2 piece unit. One piece soldered to the motherboard and the other one holding the cable. The keyboard cable can be removed by carefully pulling it out. To reinstall it you need to get the 2nd piece out of the connector. Then reinstall this piece with the cable. Also note that the upper inside braces of the case will need to be cut. You will now this by the case not closing all the way. Cut these where the harddrive is located and it will all close nicely. Enjoy!