As we continue exploring the "taste
of America" in this column, we hear   
more and more that the public is      
patronizing restaurants which special-
ize in what some food critics call    
"Mom" food.  What is "Mom" food?  It's
basic neighborhood restaurant food    
such as meat loaf, pot roast, fried   
chicken, mashed potatoes, and candied 
carrots.  Once again, we seem to be   
favoring the old standbys such as     
cheeseburgers, french fries and apple 
pie.                                  
                                      
   The restaurant industry, through   
its various trade journals, report    
that in 1986 Americans ate enormous   
quantities of appetizers such as      
nachos, soups such as cream of        
brocolli, and tossed green salads.    
Prime rib was the top beef entree     
chosen in this country's restaurants, 
and the most favored poultry was roast
turkey - a surprise for most of us who
had believed that fried chicken was a 
strong leader.  As no surprise was the
report that french fries still command
the number one spot for the favorite  
vegetable.                            
                                      
   And speaking of which - vegetables,
that is - let's look at one superb    
vegetable that is a passion with the  
French: asparagus.  A key factor in   
the enjoyment of this delightfully    
subtle vegetable is its tenderness    
after cooking.  Be sure to keep your  
asparagus refrigerated at 34 to 36    
degrees and to use it within 48 hours 
after purchase.                       
                                      
   When buying asparagus, consider    
thick stalks over thin ones.  Firmness
of the stalk is a definite quality    
factor.  Break a stalk and notice that
it breaks with a brisk snap.  The top 
of the stalk, called the bud, should  
be compact and tight against the top  
of the stalk.  If the bud is beginning
to grey, be aware that the stalk has  
passed its prime and that this is a   
sign of over-maturity, which usually  
results in tough and stringy cooked   
asparagus.                            
  Keep in mind that only the green    
portion of this vegetable is edible.  
The white area near the butt of the   
stalk should be trimmed.  The recom-  
mended method for cooking is steaming.
A simple dressing of olive oil and    
fresh lemon juice brings out the taste
of this seasonal vegetable.  For the  
more adventurous, hollandaise sauce is
the perfect accompaniment for creating
a restrained elegance.                
                                      
  Should the availability of fresh    
asparagus be a problem, then consider 
the frozen product.  Avoid the canned 
product because my experience has been
that it has two serious shortcomings: 
a tin can taste and over-tenderness.  
Most canned products tend to be over- 
blanched (partially cooked), which    
causes them to fall apart when served.
The recipe for this column will deal  
with the simple preparation of        
Seasoned Fresh Asparagus.             
                                      
                                      
RECIPE NO. 7 - Seasoned Fresh         
Asparagus with Olive-Oil and Fresh    
Lemon Juice                           
                                      
Yield: 8 four-ounce portions          
                                      
(To obtain 8 4-oz. portions, purchase 
between 3 1/2 to 4 pounds of          
asparagus.  There will be as much as  
40% waste.)                           
Ingredients:                          
                                      
3 1/2 to 4 lbs. of fresh asparagus    
2 ounces of olive oil                 
The juice from 2 fresh lemons         
1/2 teaspoon of salt                  
                                      
                                      
Procedure:                            
                                      
1.  Break or cut off tough stems (the 
white part).                          
                                      
2.  Wash and thoroughly clean         
remaining portions - running water is 
preferred.                            
                                      
3.  Arrange spears in one direction.  
4.  In a 2-quart pan place 1 1/2      
quarts of water and salt.             
                                      
5.  Bring mixture to boil and add the 
asparagus as specified in No. 3 above.
                                      
6.  Cover the pan and bring water     
quickly back to the boiling point.  As
soon as boiling begins, remove the    
cover.  This will help retain the     
original color of asparagus.  The     
process should take 15 to 20 minutes. 
                                      
7.  Take the asparagus pan away from  
the burner and drain the water.  Throw
ice cubes on the drained asparagus to 
retain the color.  Allow it to stand  
for 3 to 5 minutes.                   
8.  Place in a serving dish and pour  
the olive oil over the vegetable.     
                                      
9.  Cut the two lemons in four wedges 
each and place the wedges on the side 
of the asparagus.  This will allow    
each guest to extract as much or as   
little lemon juice as desired.        
                                      
                                      
(C. "Gus" Katsigris is the Director of
the Food and Hospitality Service      
Institute at El Centro College.  He   
has just been named as the 1987       
"Outstanding Restauranteur of Texas"  
from the Dallas Chapter of the Texas  
Restaurant Association.)